Shoe sewing machine



Nov. 30, 1954 Filed Nov. "7, 1952 Int/en for 2,695,579 Patented Nov. 30, 1954 United States Patent Ofilice 2,695,579 SHOE SEWING MACHINE Ralph E. Pearsall, Gloucester, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application November 7, 1952, Serial No. 319,255 5 Claims. (Cl. 112-47) This invention relates to improvements in machines for sewing together the parts of a slip-lasted shoe while the edges of its parts are being brought into register, the upper of the shoe being given a rough shoe formation during the sewing operation.

The usual practice in the manufacture of a slip-lasted shoe includes the provision of a shoe upper cut with an accurate pattern designed to form a shoe when its edges are brought into register with those of an unchanneled blank of relatively thin flexible woven sheet material shaped to correspond with the sole of the shoe. In bringing the edges of the parts into register, some force is required and skill is essential to overcome the resistance offered by the material operated upon, against deforming it from its natural flattened condition. The greatest force and essential skill required in sewing together the shoe parts is exercised while operating along the abrupt curvature at the toe portion of the shoe. In sewing the toe portion of a shoe it is necessary to swing the shoe rapidly so that the stitches will be inserted substantially at right angles to the shoe parts at the point of sewing operation. To hold the parts in sewing position they are gripped by a clamp in the usual form of a work support and presser foot.

The most desirable type of sewing machine for use in the manufacture of ordinary slip-lasted shoes is a commercially available straight needle machine arranged with a work feeding clamp and a nonfeeding work clamp acting alternately to maintain a continuous grip on the edges of the shoe parts so that an operators full attention may be exercised in bringing the edges into proper registry while the clamps hold the parts thereafter during insertion of the stitches.

The usual form of machine, having work feeding and nonfeeding work clamps is arranged with the nonfeeding clamp located along the direction of feed at the left of the sewing point while maintaining clear visibility at the sewing point. With such location the feeding clamp pushes the material shoe parts operated upon through the nonfeeding clamp tending to crumple them and the nonfeeding. clamp flattens the crumpled parts in a manner which distorts them permanently. When operating upon the edges of slip-lasted shoe parts with the usual machine of this type, particularly where relatively sharp serrated work engaging surfaces are provided on the clamps, a serious difficulty arises from the tendency of the serrations to impale or tear the sheet material comprising the sole in a manner to impair proper feeding movement or to damage the material. Usually, shoes constructed on machines of this type require applications of heat, wetting of the distorted parts and hand repair operations before acceptable results are obtained.

The object of the present invention is to improve the manner of operation and the construction of slip-lasted shoe sewing machines, in which the difliculties of feeding and clamping the edges of the two parts noted are avoided while retaining visibility of the parts at the point of sewing operations, and in which the edges of the parts are easily brought into proper register in advance of the sewing point with less skill and attention on the part of the machine operator than heretofore needed. A further object is to improve the quality and volume of work performed by a machine of the type referred to, by providing an arrangement of clamps in the machine, which enable a more accurate register than heretofore considered being sewn together without distortion of the parts or other damage to the resulting shoe. In the attainment of these and other objects a sewing machine for operating upon slip-lasted shoes is provided having the usual stitch forming devices including a needle and a work feeding clamp acting to grip the material of a shoe about the point of needle operation in which a nonfeeding work clamp acting while the feeding clamp is being back fed, has a work engaging surface limited to a small area located with respect to the direction of feed in advance of the work feeding clamp only so that instead of pushing the edges of the parts operated upon through the nonfeeding clamp, they are pulled through by the feeding clamp. Preferably, the nonfeeding clamp comprises a stationary work support plate having an aperture through which a feed dog projects and a presser foot having a work engaging surface limited to an area located with respect to the direction of work feed opposite a stationary portion of the plate in advance of the perforation therein, the nonfeeding presser foot being formed with an arm provided with a recess through which the feeding presser foot moves both toward and from the work and in the direction of work feed. By so doing it is possible to utilize a machine already commercially available, in which there is arranged a reciprocating needle bar to which the needle is secured, a work feeding presser foot bar and a nonfeeding presser foot bar, all mounted for movement in substantially parallel relationship, forming another, along the direction of work of the point of needle operation so that the work operated upon may be guided with the greatest possible facility.

These and other features of the invention, as hereinafter described and claimed, will be pointed out in connection with the following detailed specification, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of portions of a sliplasted shoe sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention and illustrating parts of a shoe, broken away and shown in section, while being presented to the machine;

Fig. 2 is a view in left parts and shoe illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a sectional plan view taken along the line III-III of Fig. 2; and

Fig. 4 is a detailed view of the work support and feed dog of the machine indicating the gripping areas of the work clamps.

The illustrated machine is intended for sewing While unsupported by a last the margins of the parts in a sliplasted shoe with the edges of the parts registering. During sewing the parts are deflected from their normal flattened condition and are shaped progressively into the configuration of a shoe. The parts of a slip-lasted shoe of conventional construction include an upper 6 cut with an accurate pattern and an unchanneled blank 8 of relatively thin flexible woven material shaped to correspond with the sole of the shoe. Both shoe parts ordinarily are furnished in a substantially flattened condition and during the sewing operation, the operator is required to deflect their edges progressively while bringing the edges into register in advance of the sewing point. Where hard toe shoes are being manufactured, the toe portion of an upper may be preshaped and provided with a reinfor-cement 10 of stiffening material which is later actipossible alongthe edges of the parts in a slip lasted shoe vated. Even when preshaped, however, the upper still requires substantial deflection progressively in advance of the sewing point in the machine. Considerable skill is required in deflecting the parts and bringing their edges into accurate register especially about the toe and inside shank of the shoe, a substantial tension being imparted to the sole blank while it is being sewn to the upper 6, which is of substantially larger area than the sole blank. Also, a right angle flange is formed in the sole blank margin during the sewing operations by work gripping clamps in the machine, the sole blank being relatively more flexible than the upper. As a result of the right angle flange in the sole blank there is a tendency for it to cling to the upper members of the work clamps, parside elevation of the machine res ective bars Being arra 'ph mar at the least-agar the ticularly when they are arranged inside -by-siderelation margin of the blank is effectively flanged and brought and when sharp senatiea' are an in the Work engaging into contact with the 'r'n'ar'gifi 6f the new 6. Farmer areas of the clamps, retarding the work feed or damagmore, with the feeding and nonfeeding feet in the usual ing the woven struct e ofthe sock lining. Ifthe shoe side-by-side relation, a narrow flange is formed in the is he sewn on prior nfabhine, in which feeding sole blank by the feeding foot but as the nonfeeding foot and "e p vid'ed acting in "side-byacts a much wider flangeis formed, deflecting the parts y wide flange will beformed somewhat from their original relation and crumpling tion'o hrsin the finished'shoe. them in advance of the nonfeeding foot. One reason for v .t v this difiiculty is that under its tension the sole blank amed, a t e s t yh d, e

resists conformity with themargin of the vupper, tending g l to draw away from, it particularly about the toe portion parts and tb r'e 'e fthe jdan'gerfo'f darnage or distortion of a shoe, as indicated by the angle '38 in Fig. 2'. yAlso, while. e work clamps of the illustrated machine if the feeding presser foot engages the sole blank during Whig r. A a t v 'd ahdfarranged in a particularly advantageits back feeding movement the extreme "edge of the blank annle'r fboth 'for easy visibility and reliable unimmay be stretched ,or the shoe may be moved against the ed feed of tl ig work Accordingly, the machine 1:; direction of work feed. If -sliflic'ie'nt stretching of the sole r. N a

prov e w k ceding clanah the grip of which blank occurs, crumpling takes place at the left of the rate upon is exerted on an "area 10- needle and an improper shape is imparted to the shoe g relation to thesewing point and or ,the bla'nkis damaged by tearing.

amp arranged to act while the feed- 0 The nonfeedingt'presse'r foot 28in the r'nachi'ne of the ign clan is bihg backfed with a work engaging sun present invention has its shahk so formed andth'e ser- "face l'nnted respectlto the direction of work feed rations 26 along its work engaging surface so but that its to coniihdlar'ea located in advahce only of the area Work engaging surface acts on vthe work in a limited area engage'dby e eediiig jcla'rnp, 'In other respects the located in advance onlyyof the work feeding foot 24 illustrated I is ner'ally similar to that of a cornrather than behind 'or in side-by side relation to the feedn a ailablelociistitch sewing machine. ing foot, Asa result, the nont'eeding foot 28 coi-np're'sses e articularly to the drawings, the mathe flangeof thefsole blank againstth'e upperat 'th'edges f a v parate portions of only of the parts'and closes the angle 38 without influenc- V, hiding a work support 12 projecting in any way the feeding fr'novenjent or -deformih'g the ing 11 l a base portion and an overhanging 3O configuration of the shoe parts after the parts are fed. arnrl l connected (integrally thereto. Mounted for re- To enable the nonfeedi g foot to be secured'to'the press'er ciprdca'tioh. in thjef'a'rrn 1114 are a 'needlebar 16, a work bar the no'nfeeding foot is formed with an armbe'nt feedinf'g presser 'fioot 'bar 1'8 'anda'n'onfeeding presser foot arfound'the feedi g f 0t 24 at the side 'of the needle opfbar zlh The eedle bar secured to'it an 'eye pointed p'osite the main bulk of a shoe being sewn, providing a needle 22;. flife feediiigpre'sser footbar '18 has clamped recess through which the feeding 'foot 24 and the to fa work fe ding p foot '24 formed al ng Its needle move, Thenonfeedin'g "clamp includes the foot k e ag g 'ations 2 Clamped 28 and a portion of the. work support plate 36 in ad- .9 .4 v, Vance onlyof the slot/indicated 'at' 41 in the plate. Thus,

01 28 js'er'rjate'd 'along its work engagthe feedi'ng clarnp composed of the foot 24 and thefeed Th 111 I 53 1. i mjb j and h 40 dog 3'4 are fully protected againstfnndesirecl contact with l i ifq yfirfi l movement in a feed the Work during their back feeding movements, the feed le "in: he a'rm llfin he ir i Of dog 34 being withdrawn fromengagementwith the under t A nfih l rzh h hdingly mounted side of the workthrou'ghthe slot 41 andtheno'nfeeding j ttga r qrh'r qh h'fi'x vh i h he in the foot 28 holding the flange or the sole blank8 positiv'ely arm. This 'is the itsu'al 'arrangem'entof 'the'needle and 45 out of the patho lh f I 0hs26 along 'th 'wo k npre serfioot he e n e typ of ach n indicated, the gaging surfaceof theifoot 24.

fd I S S l Y P n Reference to Fig, 4 will'indicate more exactly the 'rela- 'l. 1 P,.,9 l Q flFl, fi h hff bar 111 tionshi'p of the gripping areas acted upon by the work o t-t e feeding har i t'th'e heedle bar and feeding and aenreeding wet-k clamps. Thefwork feed- IlQIl Q QlH hrm9st fii Q Such mg clamp'grip's the shoeparts along the ar a, indicated t V? v g i 'l fl design h y by adotted rectangle 42, surrounding the point'of'nee'dle Convenient Y W P w along the-area indicated by a "dotted rectangle 44 in close Q' HE Q HQ is With proximity to. the are'af42 in advance only of the sewing a j i aj. fa hjt W h a w to the q point. The' desir'abili't'y of such arrangementfis accentul? .i g a l lS b fi arrow (5 8' ated Where relatively shor't curvatures are eacon ered Id/fi d? 1 hQ,1'-? d ,9? the PP around theftoe "portions and shanks of shoes, inasmuch k QOQT, C gtz g W fi pressertq as the gripping areas "42 "and '4f4=are bro'tifgl'rt clos'e t'ohr ha h hq ft h e ma Operated gether after back feeding 'the feeding may, sb'that'tIie k -PMth sa?street;rt); a a -s rtr WOINHSU Q RI 1, H e curve S111' 2tC 6S0. e s 0e pars as cose as; shp h f nst e g j r of theplate and sible to the "gripping area er the no'nfeeding cramp.

11 a rshtsnntahst r the -t a he 3. 0? P 1 2 t, angu ar movemen's o e s cc pars as my are pre- 5 i' hW l }?QP 1YJ 3 1 99 i an verhcally 'se'nted to the machine ar disturbed in the smallest pesm a direction Opposite to h verhcaltmovement of the sibl'e degree. Also, the'location of the 'nonf'eedir'rgfoot i g P fdot- The hhnfeedihg Q' Ordinarily e in advance at the feeding rem and'in line with thefeedgages p e at Teft q 2 o through h, ing restart "th'e'di're'ct'ion er f eed'ra'th'e'r thanin "side-byh feed ogh 'i s dmapresscr foot 24 18 side relation therewith-prevents d'istenien;waniptin er rre uean formed with an opening in line with'the path other damage to 'thefsho'e,

f h n e b p e material Operated upon In order to" assist "he'registeref the shoe: parts *di'fring closely incompletely fsurr'dunding relation to the needle h wi pq i h ed e f ba hge brought hbOUt rits p pfi pe'ififion, Th6 feed dog 34 having 3 against an adjustable ga'g'e '46 of the-usual "construction. similar 'ope'nin'g ali'ned therewith. The ga'ge '4'6is adjustable" t'tiwardsand from th'e'sewirig With the usual arrangementbf feeding and nonfee point through manipttlatidn ofa'clai'np 'scrW'dS'Cting ing Wdfk fclalflps composed respectively Of the WOIk feedon the edge gzfge 'afld'the'forwrd work engaging surface ,P 6 'fi feed dog i i the s i a CQ a of the'gage 'is formedwith' a suitably convex face-fill. 0f 'fioflfed'fig P 5 footr'yafid the Work pp With the use of a nonfe'edin g' elamp actingonaiiinited P h iii time, it 'i's appare'nt that the feedareafin advance. only of the sewi'ngpoint, thefa'cei50cof ing :p'fess'e'r foot will engage the WorksotneWhat in ad- 80 the edge gage'islo'cated'alphgthe.-line'of the'seaniwithz'its vflfice n One Side bf the no'nfeeding fo t. On a point of contact'againstg'the 'work directly 'oppositerthe count of the tension in thesole blank "8 and the angular sewing point of the needle or between thesewing-point flange formation along its rr1argin,difficulty h'asbeenjemand 'the clamping'area 44. a,

'counteredduring' the back-feeding movement of the feed- To preventengagement ofnon fee'ding presse'n foot ing foot by engagement with the sole blank before the 8 28 with the edge gage 46. the bend in the arm of the nonfeeding foot forming the recess 40 is located above the upper surface of the edge gage and the nonfeeding foot has a vertical portion 52 e'tending upwardly from its gripping area 44 on the work support plate 36 to a position above the level of the edge gage. The vertical portion of the presser foot 28, therefore, terminates at its gripping area on the work within an angle formed by the face 50 of the edge gage and the work engaging surface of the plate 36 in the line of the seam with the needle and feeding foot to form an enclosure for the registering edges of the shoe upper 6 and the sole blank 8 and thus prevents displacement of the shoe part edges at any time during sewing.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a particular embodiment having been described, what is claimed is:

l. A machine for sewing while unsupported by a last the margin of a shoe upper and an unchanneled blank of relatively thin flexible material shaped to correspond with the sole of a shoe, said machine having a needle and other stitch forming devices, and a work feeding clamp acting to grip the material operated upon about the point of needle operation, in combination with a nonfeeding work clamp acting while the feeding clamp is being backfed and having work engaging surfaces limited to a gripping area located with respect to the direction of feed in advance only of the work feeding clamp.

2. A machine for sewing while unsupported by a last the margin of a shoe upper and an unchanneled blank of relatively thin flexible material shaped to correspond with the sole of a shoe, said machine having a needle and other stitch forming devices, and a work feeding clamp comprising a feed dog and a presser foot acting to grip the material operated upon about the point of needle operation and having work engaging surfaces defining an area surrounding the point of needle operation, in combination with a nonfeeding work clamp acting to grip the material operated upon while the feeding clamp is being backfed and comprising a stationary work support plate through which the feed dog projects, and a presser foot having a work engaging surface limited to an area located with respect to the direction of work feed opposite a portion of the plate in advance only of the point of needle operation and being formed with an arm providing a recess through which the feeding presser foot moves and a nonfeeding presser foot bar to which the nonfeeding presser foot is secured, mounted for reciprocation toward and from the work with respect to the direction of work feed beyond the sewing point.

3. A machine for sewing while unsupported by a last the margin of a shoe upper and an unchanneled blank of relatively thin flexible material shaped to correspond with the sole of a shoe, said machine having a needle and other stitch forming devices, and a work feeding clamp, in combination with a nonfeeding work clamp acting to grip the material operated on while the feeding clamp is being backfed and being located to operate on the Work along the line of the seam inserted by the needle only in advance of the work feeding clamp, said work feeding clamp comprising a feed dog located at the side of the work opposite that from which the needle penetrates the work and a work clamping presser foot movable in the direction of work feed, the nonfeeding clamp comprising a stationary work support plate and a presser foot engaging the work opposite the stationary plate and being formed with an arm provided with a recess through which the feeding presser foot moves, a nonfeeding presser foot bar to which the nonfeeding presser foot is secured, a reciprocating needle bar to which the needle is secured and a feeding presser foot bar to which the work feeding presser foot is secured, said needle, work feeding presser and nonfeeding presser foot bars all being mounted for reciprocation in substantially parallel relationship one behind another along the direction of work feed in the order last stated.

4. A machine for sewing while unsupported by a last the margin of a shoe upper and an unchanneled blank of relatively thin flexible material shaped to correspond with the sole of a shoe, said machine having a needle and other stitch forming devices, and a work feeding clamp acting to grip the material operated upon in surrounding relation to the point of needle operation, in combination with a nonfeeding work clamp acting while the feeding clamp is being backfed and having work engaging surfaces limited to a gripping area located with respect to the direction of feed in advance only of the work feeding clamp, said feeding and nonfeeding clamps including a feeding presser foot and a nonfeeding presser foot formed with an arm bent around the feeding foot at the side of the needle opposite the main bulk of the shoe parts being sewn.

5. A machine for sewing while unsupported by a last a margin of a shoe upper and an unchanneled blank of relatively thin flexible material shaped to correspond with the sole of a shoe, said machine having a work feeding needle and other stitch forming devices, a work feeding clamp acting to grip the material operated upon about the point of needle operation, and an edge gage along which the upper and sole blank are guided into the point of needle operation, in combination with a nonfeeding work clamp acting while the feeding clamp is being backfed and having Work engaging surfaces limited to a gripping area located with respect to the direction of feed in advance only of the work feeding clamp, said work clamps including feeding and nonfeeding presser feet, a feed dog and a work support plate through which the feed dog moves, the nonfeeding presser foot being formed with an arm bent around the feeding foot at the side of the needle opposite to the main bulk of the shoe parts being sewn and having a vertical portion extending upwardly from its gripping area and terminating at a position above the level of the edge gage.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 253,731 Luessen Feb. 14, 1882 722,014 Harmon Mar. 3, 1903 1,787,157 Leveque Dec. 30, 1930 2,549,057 Chinnici Apr. 17, 1951 

